The things you hear backstage. Tonight at Proenza Schouler, Lazaro Hernandezdeclared, “We were looking at bananas, things that peel away from the body.” The designer and his partner, Jack McCollough, turned out an audacious collection for Spring, one that solidified their recent preoccupations with texture, decoration, and asymmetry, and produced some of the most knockout dresses of the week.
Spain seemed to be a starting point, what with the black, white, and red color palette; the ruffles and the exposed shoulders; and the pom-poms that traced the edges of dresses and jackets in broderie anglaise. But this wasn’t the straightforward interpretation of Spanish influences that Peter Copping’s was at Oscar de la Rentalast night. Two shirtdresses that spilled off the shoulders (fashion’s current favorite erogenous zone) turned to reveal a crisscross of straps; the hem of another dress was connected via a series of tied knots, and the back was cut out of a knit dress with flamenco ruffles. Tailored pieces were stripped of their closures; velvet ribbons that looped through metal grommets and tied in bows kept patch-worked jacquard jackets and vests from falling open. All of which brings us back to Hernandez’s peeling bananas.
The Proenza boys have long been New York City’s most craft-obsessed young designers. With a new investor announced earlier this year, their ambitions are bigger than ever. Here and there the details were overdone—seen all together, those bows surely looked too busy. But when they were on, they were on. Tops in our books was a series of narrow midi dresses with ruffles, cutouts, and fil coupe dots. Feathered numbers made by shooting a rod through each quill to create a mesh grid were truly special. As for accessories, the pointy-toed mules with metal ring detailing, lacing at the ankles, and low mirrored heels rank right up there with the best of New York City, too. Written by Nicole Phelps for Vogue.com