Narciso Rodriguez is an engineer as much as he is a designer. He’s always had a thing for seams, and his clothes are constructed like precision instruments. After a Fall collection with elongated silhouettes perched on towering heels that took his preoccupations to extremes, Rodriguez was after something more sensual here. “It’s a bit undone,” he said beforehand. Outfit number one was a black sateen top as glossy as leather that wrapped asymmetrically around the waist above a pair of full white trousers. Not undone by a long shot, but it was definitely more relaxed than what he’s been up to the last couple of seasons. It was followed up with an extremely fitted side-buttoning jacket: As a rule, though, the clothes here floated on the body. Silk tees slouched off one shoulder, and dresses twisted around the legs to fall in asymmetrical hems.
The gentler silhouette was a welcome development. So too was Rodriguez’s use of fabrics with a keen sense of the hand: the sateen that looked like leather and the nubby linen he chose for dresses that arched over one knee, which, by the way, happened to be completely reversible to silk chiffon. Tech fabrics tend to have a flatness that leaves you cold. There wasn’t a chance of that here. Rodriguez explained that his starting point was photographs of the ocean floor, but the palette was warm: bright amber, lacquer red, and golden mineral rings that swooped across dresses and encircled others from front to back. The sea creature embroidery on a bias-cut white silk dress was as exquisite as anything we’ll see all season.
Written by Nicole Phelps for style.com