Today’s gritty MM6 Maison Margiela runway presentation was a flashback to the industrial techno dens of London’s subterranean club scene. In a cavernous corner east of the city, representatives of the MM6 collective (which is headed up, of course, by John Galliano) wore anonymous white lab coats. The disruptive mood was cemented by the huge bank of analog recording equipment—a wall of sound, if you will—that formed the backdrop to this retro-futuristic warehouse party. As models took to the stage, they stopped to tinker with the equipment as if to create their own soundtrack to what was a hypnotic display. These club kids came well prepared for a long night—packing Coke cans, beers, and even plastic banana holders in their Perspex cross-body bags (how else to stylishly sustain an all-nighter?).
MM6 mainlined the chaos and creativity of post-gender club kids beautifully. This was an idea-packed show with more than one stand-out moment: There were eagle and equestrian prints, glitter-bombed fanny packs retooled as tops, and plastic bin liners fashioned into everything from a surprisingly elegant blouson to detachable pouf sleeves and a cerulean sundress. Ideas were pulled from not-so-distant eras, then reappropriated and repeated. There was also a prettiness here (for both boys and girls) in the pink metallic Ziggy Stardust two-pieces, and sheer dresses in khaki and pale blue that tied at the neck with pussy bows. MM6, surely, is a place for Galliano to have fun mining the dress-up box of recent history. But the models, with determinedly blank stares and hunched posture, resembled androids, giving fun a far-off feel. Written by Aimee Farell for Vogue.com