They don’t refer to fashion’s “flock” for nothing: Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman looked to the skies for inspiration for their Spring collection and found it slightly closer to earth in “a botanical menagerie of caged birds.” These were represented by fluffy feathered skirts, 3-D embroideries of flora and fauna, artfully arched modesty-preserving wings, and colorful décolleté accents poking out from the bodice of sleek corsets on red carpet–ready gowns.
Sheer boudoir-inspired evening looks in black and nude Chantilly lace provoked further rumination on the “caged bird” concept. The sweeping, ombré-dyed tiered tulle trains in shades of sorbet caused a riot of Instagram snaps among a front row section occupied by a gaggle of Disney Channel starlets, eager to scrum for their debut in the larger celebrity ecosystem. (On the other end of the spectrum and the runway was Bette Midler, to whom a thickly jeweled, sheer-shouldered gown in deep navy was of significantly more interest.) And what else is Marchesa for, if not exquisitely rendered red carpet moments for one’s own inner Disney princess? That a few of the dresses left some runway detritus (a fistful of feathers here, petals of tulle there)—turning a devoted Harvey Weinstein into a quick one-man clean-up crew—only proved that even the brightest peacocks among us have to return to reality now and again. And you know what they say about birds of a feather.
Written by Alessandra Codinha