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September 28, 2015

Iceberg has seen a long list of designers come and go over the years. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Marc Jacobs, the Dsquared2 brothers, and Giambattista Vallihave all held the top post. Alexis Martial was the most recent recruit until he graduated to Carven earlier this year. Now Arthur Arbesser, who launched his own label a few seasons ago, has assumed the role, and it’s a sign of his buzz factor, and Milan’s growing enthusiasm for nurturing local talent, that the turnout in the front row was the best it has been at Iceberg in recent memory.

“I feel quite honored and happy to be here,” Arbesser said backstage, “but at the same time I feel [the line] needs a good injection of fun and energy. And a clear message.” He certainly brought zest to the endeavor this afternoon, embracing the brand’s heritage in knits and not skimping on color or pattern either. The “bonkers” work of the Italian artist Enrico Baj was a jumping-off point, informing the bold print on a silk dress and the plastic badges pinned to the chest of some pieces, creating a loose, sort of military vibe. But the knits are what really resonated. With their preppy-psychedelic sensibility and body-conscious fit, they’ll be catnip for the street style posse. They’ll also be a pleasure to wear, which will make them attractive to more restrained types, too. It will be interesting to see what Arbesser does for Fall, when he can really have a go at sweater dressing. We expect to see an even bigger crowd at round two. Written by Nicole Phelps for Vogue.com

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