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September 16, 2015

One imagines that Josep Font’s mind might be a lovely place to spend some time. There’s an anachronistic quality to the designer’s brand of demi-couture as he has established it in his three years at the Spanish heritage house Delpozo. His romanticism and unreservedly fairy-tale brand of femininity hearken back to another time, and the designer has a love of dressing women that’s palpable.

For Spring, Font’s women were those of Federico García Lorca’s Gypsy Ballads and Emilie Flöge, muse to Gustav Klimt and, in fact, a fashion designer herself who envisioned proto-bohemian styles far ahead of her time. Many a creative director has name-checked Flöge in the past, but rather than appearing merely as a vessel for Klimt’s famous aesthetic, here Font found a grounding force in Flöge’s love of folklore, and the similarly earthy qualities to be found in Lorca’s famous book. Font, whose work so often has an almost synthetically confectionary tenor to it, incorporated those craftier elements into his vernacular in rich and compelling ways. Take a stunning hand-crocheted long raffia vest, or that same material brought to life in a massive icy blue belted wrap. Pieces like that served as textural, welcome foils to Font’s most purely extravagant looks.

If otherworldly volumes are a signature of his tenure with Delpozo thus far, then the larger-than-life shirtdress in a metallic palm jacquard with tiers of generous ruffles, or a sheer pannier-like miniskirt, surely pushed even Font’s own boundaries (the fabric of the former came to life beautifully and more quietly as a fringed wrap over white trousers). A grouping of polka-dotted pieces early on and a long rounded skirt in graphic orange and blue scrollwork could surely have been cut from the collection, since their sharpness felt so at odds with the ethereal ideas Font proposed elsewhere. A blue and pink moire frock served as an especially vivid testament to Delpozo fantasia at its best, and contrasted nicely with the house’s first move into purses, a chicly boxy doctor’s bag.


Written by Kristin Anderson for vogue.com

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