Julianne Moore wore a Le Smoking–style jumpsuit by Boss’s Jason Wu at the Toronto International Film Festival last weekend. She looked fantastic. The strapless black jumpsuit reappeared on the runway this afternoon, but its formality meant it was an outlier in Wu’s new collection for the German brand. Now in his fourth runway season, he’s focused on growing the Boss universe: To do so, he focused mostly on daywear of the decidedly breezy variety for Spring.
To start he gave the Boss suit a makeover, elongating the jacket, hacking off the sleeves, and adding fringe to the lapels; full trousers were cropped above the ankle. The tailoring felt airier than his previous work here and freer, even when the jackets had full sleeves. The same goes for his dresses. Who knows why, but Issey Miyake–style micro-pleats have emerged as a significant New York trend, not only on the runways, but also on the street. Wu used them to winning effect, cutting delicate sleeveless dresses in bright shades of flame red, cobalt, and lemon yellow organza. Their split skirts and handkerchief hems swirled weightlessly as they came down the runway.
Until now Wu has avoided prints at Boss. Giving them a go today, he experimented with an etched, gray-tone floral. It felt a bit anemic side by side with the Bauhaus colors of the pleated dresses. A pair of sheaths in a two-tone woven tweed with frayed edges were bolder. All in all, an assured outing.
Written by Nicole Phelps for vogue.com